I wish I was able to curl all my toes over the nose of my board, but I can’t (yet) and although I definitely don’t consider myself a good surfer by any means, it is still a big chunk of my life. I grew up with my parents owning a surf shop, I wrote my university dissertation on the difference in values between long and shortboarders, I’m a Piscean so water is my element and I would live in it if I could, and I now have my dream job working for a surf company. Who cares if I am good or not right?….I do it for the love of it and it really does define who I am and how I choose to live my life.
Now I would also consider myself a fussy surfer….Shock horror! Surfers should be stoked to go out no matter the conditions, I hear you say….well not me. I only like to go out when the waves are small and gentle and the sun is shining. I am just not inclined to go out when it’s stormy and 6 foot. Surfing to me is about having fun; I just don’t have fun in gnarly conditions. That’s kind of all there is to it. I prefer to mull around and wait for tiny little peelers to roll in and marvel at the clear water, blue sky and this vast ocean we get to play in whenever we like.
Noosa didn’t even disappoint me when it was half a foot! Well maybe a little bit….I still had a super fun session. The first week of winter and I was still in a 2mm Shorty Jane Billabong wetsuit…oh the perks of living in Queensland. It was only myself and a few other people out that day including a couple of poms on super steezy logs, a father pushing his stoked son onto waves, and an ol’ duck who wouldn’t stop talking to me… Probably another reason I like small days as there are no intimidating crowds. I spent most of the afternoon frolicking in the turquoise water and when the sun set I knew it was time to call it a day.
The sea and me
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